Adamstown, Pitcairn Island
Pitcairn Island. The name calls to mind a remote land, filled with history and mystery of explorers past. The largest of the islands, Pitcain Island itself, is famously the landing site of the Bounty mutineers, who cast their Captain aside in 1789, and created their own community of sailors and Tahitians. Today, the community on this island, the only inhabited island in the group, consists of less than 50 people, each of whom are incredibly friendly and welcoming, happy to share their beautiful island with visitors.
Map of the island, found in Adamstown.
Our ship dropped anchor just offshore of the island on April 2, 2023. The conditions weren’t ideal – the notorious swell of the very exposed island was present, and disembarking on the zodiacs proved challenging… but doable. We headed ashore, and were greeted by a team of locals, ready with 4-wheelers and a few sturdy trucks to take us from the landing site, up the Hill of Difficulty, to the main town.
Yes – you read that right – the Hill of Difficulty is the actual name of the steep incline from the water up to Adamstown. It’s no joke! Luckily, the 4-wheelers and trucks did their job, and we made short work of the drive. Adamstown welcomed us with several small souvenir stands with many hand-carved wooden pieces, and stamped postcards ready to be dropped in the mailbox (although they won’t be sent out until the quarterly supply ship stops by in early May!).
Dropping off my postcard to family! We’ll see when it arrives.
Now, the adventure really began. I went on a hike to St. Paul’s Pool – a relatively short hike over the corner of the island, but one shaped like an upside down V…. first it was up, up, up, and then, it was down, down, down! We were accompanied by Kevin, an incredibly friendly local guide. He had grown up on the island, moved away for most of his life, and then retired home to Pitcairn. At one point, when the uphill started to feel endless, he turned in to a driveway that turned out to be that of his cousin, helped himself to some oranges sitting on her table, and shared them with those of us on the hike!
After about an hour, we got our first look at the destination, at which point all thoughts of tired legs melted away. St. Paul’s Pool is a geological leftover from the volcanic formation of Picairn Island. Volcanic rock forms a large, yet shallow, sea-fed pool, surrounded by craggy peaks, just at the water’s edge. Every so often, a large surge of surf breaks over the pool’s walls, and creates magnificent splashes. The water in the pool is crystal clear, and from above, looks like a bright blue oasis in an unforgiving landscape. Quickly, we descended the steps and rocks leading to the pool and jumped in the refreshing water. Words cannot describe this experience – it was unforgettable, and incredibly special. You’ll just have to take my word for it (or get yourself to Pitcairn and find out for yourself!).
St. Paul’s Pool
Eventually, it was time to make the trek back. Some chose to take 4-wheelers back, but after being cooped up on the ship for several days, I took the opportunity to stretch my legs and get some exercise, and did the return hike. And I am sure glad I did! As I was walking back with our local guide Kevin, I noticed some ripe bananas in a tree, and asked about how they harvest them. Well, that of course called for a demonstration! He lowered the banana bunch to a reachable height, and then with a machete, felled the bunch and passed around tiny, sweet bananas. They were perfectly ripe, very sweet, and very distinct. It was exactly the motivation needed to power through the rest of the hike.
Sweet, ripe bananas harvested right beside the trail!
Upon arrival back in Adamstown, the local café put on a great spread for lunch. Delicious fish & chips with very fresh fish, and several options for the chips portion. Several options? What could there possibly be other than potato fries? Well, let me answer that – dried and fried breadfruit! Breadfruit has a long history on the island, and it was great to see it featured both as chips and in boiled form as a side dish at lunch.
Breadfruit chips and a chunk of boiled breadfruit.
After lunch, and a bit more wandering through town and connecting with locals, we had to move on – we had a lot more nautical miles to cover before our next adventure. We enjoyed a sail-away cocktail party on deck as the sun set on a beautiful day, and I know I wasn’t alone in the knowledge that I will be thinking about this special island for a long time to come.
Celebrating a gorgeous day in a gorgeous place!
