Isle of May, Scotland

A tiny island with a big history… and a lot of birds! The Isle of May was a delight to visit, and a place I hope to return some day.

Gorgeous cliffsides of the Isle of May.

We made our way to shore in the early afternoon of June 20, 2023. The steep stone cliff faces of the island greeted us – it was quite an awe-inspiring sight, although slightly less inspiring to scramble up!

Once ashore, we were greeted by thousands of seabirds, most strikingly, the Atlantic puffin. I left my camera onboard, so I was unable to capture any photos of quality of these adorable birds, but I used that as an excuse to soak in their presence. Beyond the puffins, there were herring gulls, guillemots, razorbills, and more. Hundreds of birds in the air at any given time… it was spectacular!

A bit more exploring took me to the main historical attraction on the island – the Isle of May lighthouse. The Isle of May is actually home to the remnants of the very first lighthouse in Scotland! Built in the 1630s, this lighthouse began Scotland’s long tradition of beautiful lighthouses. Though the structure now is smaller than it once was (after suffering a tragic fire), it remains in the center of the island reminding all visitors of its importance in Scotland’s history.

The oldest lighthouse in Scotland -the Isle of May Beacon.

Just across the way however, is a much bigger lighthouse built in the early 1820s, designed by no other than Robert Stevenson (yes, the grandfather of that Robert Louis Stevenson!). The lighthouse is beautiful. Although it’s now automated, it was one of Scotland’s last manned lighthouses, and is still looked after and upkept by the Isle of May Natural Reserve Manager, year-round. Visitors to the island are able to climb up the lighthouses 96 steps and soak in the views from the top – it’s magnificent! A local guide told me that the view up there is the best map of the island… and it’s true! The island is less than 1.5 miles long and half a mile wide, and standing at the top of the lighthouse you can see from end to end. Just beautiful.

Believe it or not, however, the history on this small island runs even deeper! A bit further along the island lie the remains of a 7th century priory, or religious hold for nuns and priests. Archaeological records also indicate that this island may even have been a burial site for communities in the area as long ago as the 5th century – it’s been held in high esteem for several millennia, and it’s easy to see why.

Walking back from the priory, past the small visitors center, and along the coast, you’re met with stunning cliff views, wildflowers, and of course the ever-present and incredible bird life on the island. I was lucky enough to get an up close look at some herring gull chicks as I wandered my way back to our landing site.

I’d love to come back and spend more time here – sitting in the remains of the priory, walking along the coastlines, soaking up all of the life on the island, and thinking of lives past. What a special place!

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Fair Isle, Shetland, Scotland

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Mosier Plateau, Oregon